Day 12 - Northern Rhône

Montélimar marks the border between the Southern Rhône, with its Grenache dominated reds and the Northern Rhône, dominated by Syrah grapes (for reds). So this morning, when I woke up, I was starting my journey into the Syrah world.
I should just mention - last night, I stayed at a cheap and cheerful place to lay my head, well upon reflection, it was neither - my non-smoking room smelt of stale smoke, two floors up with no lift and this morning's breakfast was nothing better than slop - it might have been ok if it had been inexpensive, but sitting in tonight's hotel, Les Amandiers, at the same price, there is a world of difference - Tonight's room is spacious, well kept, it's not palacial luxury, but I would be happy staying here for a few nights - last night's I couldn't wait to leave! Anyway, enough of that - I survived and started the beautiful drive up the left bank of the Rhône - this is the Ardèche side of the river and was so picturesque, mountains to my left, the very wide river to my right. I continued throught the village of Cornas, somewhere I had hoped to stop, but didn't spot any inviting Domaines, so continued to my destination for the day, which was Tournon sur Rhône. My hotel was about a 15 minute walk from the waterfront, but I decided to stay in the car and drive across the bridge which links the town to its neighbour Tain l'hermitage (situated in the Drôme region). It is from the vineyards surrounding this town that one finds the famous AOCs of Hermitage and Crozes-Hermitage.

I should mention that there is a very beautiful footbridge which also links the two towns of Tournon and Tain.....

and walking across it to have lunch in Tournon, I was impressed by the whole setting of the place.

Tournon from Tain

The towns themselves didn't have buildings and houses with the same chocolate box prettiness of Provence, but they seemed real towns getting on with their business, but in a wonderful setting.
And when I walked along the main river route in Tournon, I was delighted to find a Greek/Armenian/Lebanese restaurant...... Why, you ask? Are you not in the Gastronomic capital of the world? Well, yes I am, and if it's any consolation, the food I ate was made with the best and freshest of local produce...... But as a vegetarian, France can be quite difficult..... they have this overwhelming desire to stick meat in everything!!! I went to another street café which had 8 different salads.... all of which had meat - they just love to stick a bit of gizzard, or bacon, or tuna...... Good grief, salads are supposed to be vegetables!!!
So, after a meal of hoummus and tabouleh and greek salad and stuffed aubergine and a delicious mint tea, I was ready to face the world again.
I stopped off in the Church of Saint Julien

- a wonderful old, but quite large church which had successfully integrated some very old-fashioned and traditional art and stained glass, with more modern abstract pieces. There was even a window dedicated to Joan of Arc!

I met a very charming old man in the prayer room who was delighted to discover I had come all the way from Ireland, but was unsettled that I had dared to fly and not embrace the safety of a boat! He was also very insistent that I touch the carved full size crucifix, in particular Christ himself. I'm afraid I couldn't - up close to a lifesize and lifelike image of my Lord in his agony, I felt unworthy to touch him.

Next to the statue was an open hymnbook and I have to say the hymn it was opened at was wonderful - I wish now I had taken a picture or copied it out, but it embraced the balance of nature - very appropriate given my experiences on this trip.

So I strolled back across the river to Tain, to visit the very famous Maison Chapoutier, one of the largest, most important and most influential of the wine producers in the locality.

Tain from Tournon

I started by tasting a red Cornas, as I hadn't had the pleasure in the actual village, then followed by a white then a red Crozes-Hermitage and finally a Hermitage red.

Cornas Rouge - Les Arênes 2007 - This 100% Syrah wine had a nose of Blackberry jam, again reflecting the hot summer in the region in 2007, but the taste was still very youthful, more blackcurrant fruit and definite tannins from the 10 month aging in barrels. My server suggested keeping for 4-5 years.

Crozes-Hermitage Blanc - La Petite Ruche 2009 - A 100% Marsanne wine which produces a wine full of acidity, but subtle in its flavours - think apples, galia melons, even a little hebaceous or floral - by the way the nose is apple blossom. It is a youthful wine and should be drunk that way.

Tain, with Crozes-Hermitage vineyards behind

Crozes-Hermitage Rouge - La Petite Ruche 2008 - A 100% Syrah with a blackcurrant nose and a blackcurrant flavour. While this is a young wine, for me, the fruit seemed underripe, there was the hint of redcurrants or very sharp blackcurrants and I'm not convinced this would keep.

Hermitage Rouge - Monier de la Sizeranne 2007 - Again 100% Syrah, and again 10 months barrel aged, but this time organic with a more blackberry nose, with a hint of pepperiness, not unpleasant, but not as sweet a spiciness as say cinnamon. On the palette, the black fruit was well-rounded and the tannins were there, but much more successfully integrated than the Cornas - a much more sophisticated wine.

Rereading these, I can see that I'm not overly enthusiastic.... and that would be true, not by the quality of the wine - certainly the last was a wine of great quality, but I have to confess to not being a great lover of Syrah as a grape and without the softness of the Grenache to balance it out, it wouldn't be my personal choice..... And as for the white, well, Marsanne and its floral qualities aren't really me either, but again, that's my personal taste - hopefully next week, I can wax lyrical about some whites when I get to Burgundy!

Back to the hotel for a good night's sleep - I have to confess that I put a chair to the door last night, so didn't sleep well. Tonight I feel safe and comfortable.... and looking forward to a good night's sleep to set me up for the vineyards of Saint-Joseph tomorrow!

Bonne nuit!

PS Happy Birthday Cathy for tomorrow (or today as it's the 14th already in Oz!)