Days 24 and 25 – Champagne

It’s about 330km from Wasselonne to Épernay and I decided to take the Autoroute or routes as I ended up on 3...... and wow, expensive tolls.... It cost just over €20! Having said that, it was a very pleasant experience, mostly 2 lane motorway, and for the most part just me in my car, with the odd lorry to pass.


The views weren’t bad either; fabulous rolling hills, and as the weather was bright and dry, very clear visibility. I was particularly touched by the stretch through the Somme and the battlefields marked and then, almost as an antidote a sign for a town, known as ‘The Town of Peace’.


I made it safely, and in good time, to Champagne and was on my way to Épernay when I decided to turn off at a place called Jalons and ended up, despite my long drive, exploring the “Montagne de Reims”. For those of you unfamiliar with Champagne, the main area can be roughly divided into three portions: Montagne de Reims, Vallée de la Marne and Côte des Blancs, which respectively are mainly planted with: Pinot Noir (and Pinot Meunier), Pinot Meunier, and Chardonnay; these are the three main grape varieties used in Champagne.

Anyway, so there I was exploring the Montagne de Reims, the undulating hills, admiring the wooded areas when I spotted what looked to be a lighthouse...... on land..... with no body of water close by, not a river, not a pond, never mind the sea. So, I had to investigate.

Turns out, yes it was a lighthouse, but not for the sea, it was a marketing ploy by one of the champagne houses back in 1909 and later used in the 1st and 2nd world wars for anti-aircraft guns. Anyway, now it is a Museum dedicated to Champagne – incredibly interesting – the vinification process for champagne is different to that for still wine, so there is something different here from the other wine museums. And, being a lighthouse, situated on a rocky outcrop above the village of Verzenay, it had amazing views of the Montagne de Reims in general and across to its neighbouring windmill, now owned by Mumm champagne house.

Verzenay

My drive took me right up to Reims, but this is an extremely busy city and quite honestly after the long drive, negotiating the one-way system of a French city was more than I could deal with, so I turned south, straight back to Épernay. Just on the outskirts, I turned east through Aÿ to the small village of Mareuil-sur-Aÿ (pronounced Ma-roy-ee ..... sir..... Ah-ee) Quite a mouthful, but home of my lodgings with La Famille Guy Charbaut, not only a Chambre d’Hôte, but also a small champagne house and situated overlooking the Aÿ river. The rooms are beautiful – in keeping with the old fashioned building, so no TV or wifi, hence the delay in uploading this post, but what a spot..... and only 10 minutes to the centre of Épernay.

View from my window

After a very sound sleep, I enjoyed breakfast across the courtyard where Mme Charbaut insisted she get her son to show me, and 2 other fellow guests, the cellars. What a treat! We literally crossed the narrow street outside the house, in through a very non-descript door and into the ‘dressing’ area for the finished bottles (corking, wire shielding and foil collars), before moving through to the tanks for the 1st fermentation in the Champagne process. This turns the grape juice to a weak wine – the 2nd fermentation adds the famous bubbles!


Then we were taken down into the cellars of the building...... oh my goodness! Let me reiterate that this is a small family business, run by the son and daughter of Guy Charbaut. There were miles of tunnels, and all packed with bottles and bottles of champagne; in various stages of readiness, but nevertheless, Wow!


The tour took 2 hours – that sounds quite long, but it was absolutely fascinating, and M. Charbaut jnr took his time to explain all the nuances of what is obviously his passion, the production of champagne. He promised us a tasting that evening, so with that to look forward to, I decided to spend the afternoon just exploring the “Vallée de la Marne”.
Driving back along the river towards Épernay, I kept going west on the northern bank of the Marne river and stopped off at Hautvilliers.

This small village, though pretty, is most famous as the resting place of a certain Dom Perignon, the monk credited with coming up with the idea for champagne. He is buried in the Abbey of the village which is built on the spot where he was led by a dove to set up a Christian community.

As I made my way along the northern banks of the Marne and looped across the river and back towards Épernay, every few hundred yards, one has the opportunity to stop in a little champagne house, taste the champagne and buy. I didn’t...... purely and simply because unlike the Domaines in other parts of France, I really couldn’t walk in and out again without buying, so I have enjoyed a day of appreciating the countryside, seeing the vines on the sides of the road, including the stone markers advising the property of the famous big champagne houses.

I stopped off at Reuil, purely for its picturesque views on the river before crossing a little further downstream at Dormans, before driving East again towards Épernay.

If you look at one of the pictures of the valley, you will see a château on the opposite bank – this is the Château de Boursault, a gift for the Widow “Veuve” Clicquot. It has been passed down the female line, so not part of the Veuve Clicquot brand, and produces “Blanc de Blancs” Champagne. This is champagne made strictly from Chardonnay, i.e. white champagne from white grapes.

Similarly, “Blanc de Noirs” is white champagne made from black grapes, either Pinot Noir or Pinot Meunier.


Anyway, back for my tasting... and just in time as the heavens opened after a heart-stopping thunder and lightning show. M. Charbaut offered us 4 champagnes:


1. Champagne Sélection (Brut) – a blend of all 3 grapes. The nose was quite raspberry and the taste to match, with excellent acidity. The fizz was persistent, but very pleasant.


2. Champagne Cuvée de Réserve Premier Cru (Brut) – A third Chardonnay, two thirds Pinot Noir. The nose on this was red fruits with just a hint of citrus, while the flavour was immediately toastie, from the 4 years on the yeast, quickly followed by strawberries, rhubarb, a little blackberry.


3. Champagne Blanc de Blancs Premier Cru (Brut) – All chardonnay, and the nose reflected this with a real smell of citrus. The flavour on the palate was grapefruit and again yeastie, though more bread than toast. This was finer and more elegant, but for my personal preference, lacked the depth provided by the black grapes.


4. Champagne Rosé Premier Cru (Brut) – 90% Pinot Noir, 10% Chardonnay. So, those of you who know me well, know how much I really enjoy pink champagne. And this was just delightful. The nose was fresh blackberries, maybe wild strawberries and the taste was all blackberry and raspberry, very little discernible yeast.

I wasn’t sure what to expect...... I know that I have my favourite labels from the well-known champagne houses; I’m not usually a big fan of the very yeastie champagnes and I’m partial to a bit of pink.

Well, this was a very pleasant surprise..... The pink was as lovely as any other I have tasted, and I was completely converted to the Cuvée de Réserve Premier Cru, even with the toastie yeast flavours – I had always thought I liked the Pinot Noir favouring champagnes better, and this proved me correct..... but more than that, hugely impressed by the knowledge, care and attention paid by this champagne making family. If I do end up back in London, this will be an annual trip to stock up on champagne, no more ‘brands’ for me!

The only downside was that I had hoped to be able to drink these, as we were to enjoy a champagne dinner straight after in the main house. Alas, a change of plan meant I would have to venture out in the car afterwards, so more spitting, and the dinner will have to wait till tomorrow evening!

So, out to Épernay for dinner....... and back in the driving rain and at night...... another first in the aptly named ‘little boat’; French drains just can’t cope with more than a few spots of rain. But back safe and sound and ready for the big names tomorrow in Épernay, before a little drive down the Côte des Blancs.