So, all packed up – it’s getting more and more difficult, as I add bottles of wine.... I’m hoping that as the shampoos and moisturisers run out, their space can be occupied by wine bottles..... there were only 6 to find space for...... but space in the ‘little boat’ is at a premium.
And first stop, Nuits-Saint-Georges, the principal town of the Côte de Nuits. Friday is market day, so I had the opportunity to wander round and marvel once again at the beautiful fresh produce on offer.... and they had a covered market, which ironically reminded me of St. George’s market in Belfast! I have to confess that this was one of the places I was looking forward to visiting, as I am already a fan of their Pinot Noir wines, so to be able to really wander the little streets and explore was a real joy.
Once again, a beautiful town, nestling in amongst the vineyards that have made it so famous.
I had been thinking about how neat Beaune was, I mean in terms of not sprawling outwards, and how after so many years, it had not reached out and enveloped its satellite villages..... and the reason is simple...... its lifeblood are the vines, so there is no way they can be torn out and built on..... so it may well be the very same size, if I return when I am 85!
Anyway, back to Nuits-Saint-Georges...... what a difference; not only was it beautiful, but it was filled with charming and friendly people!
I wandered into one of the ‘Caves’, where the gentleman took the time and trouble to walk me through the whole length of the Côte de Nuits, explaining about the different parcels of vines..... and that even if you aren’t drinking a Premier Cru, or for that matter an AOC of a named village, e.g. a Hautes Côtes de Nuits – if the parcel of vines is named, it’s probably still going to be of a very high standard, with more consistency..... Nevertheless, he didn’t give me a tasting!
However, the next ‘Cave’ I visited was that of Michel Saban, who was only too delighted when I told him I was looking for a white Nuits-Saint-Georges.... “It’s very rare”, he replied, “ and I am one of the few producers of it.” It turns out that M. Saban, not only owned the shop, but was also a vineyard owner and winemaker in his own right. As my request was so rare, (only 1% of total production from the AOC), I think he took a shine to me, offered me a taste of the particular wine, along with 3 others..... He even offered me bread in between to cleanse my palate. All of his wines are made from around 40 year old vines, which is quite old, and thus increasing the quality:
1. AOC Nuits-Saint-Georges 2007 (blanc) – The nose was not nutty like yesterday’s, but still the same grapefruit aromas.... and the taste.... grapefruit, naturally, but also buttery...... and a very slight note of hazelnuts. Again, the amazing acidity and long length.
2. AOC Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru 2007 – Les Damodes (rouge) – The nose on this wine was bursting with flavours: cherries, damson jam, violets, truffles, even a little sweet spice, but despite the variety, perfectly harmonised...... And the taste – cherries, raspberries and velvety smooth, though still a well structured wine, without losing its finesse.
The next two, both red, wines M. Saban proposed were what he described as ‘male’ and ‘female’. He offered me the female first:
3. AOC Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru 2008 – Les Nazoires – The nose was violets, cherries and raspberries; beautifully perfumed. The taste was an elegant, light, red fruity flour of cherries, raspberries and a little sweet spice. There were tannins, but they were subtle and integrated perfectly..... A wine of finesse.... And yes, if it had a personality, it would be feminine.
4. AOC Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru 2006 – Les Epointures – Even one sniff of this wine, and immediately I recognised it as the masculine to the previous feminine; the nose was powerful – dark plums, damson jam, mushrooms – concentrated aromas. The taste similarly powerful – a little damson jam, but more like cherry liqueur – again concentrated, higher tannins, but while powerful, it wasn’t overpowering, a big wine, but structured and balanced perfectly.
I ended up sitting chatting to M. Saban for quite some time as he spoke so passionately about his work and how, yes, sometimes it was hard work, some years were very difficult, but they made better wines for keeping. And he didn’t mind working hard as it was a passion, a love.
I left his shop feeling delighted to have met him and spoken with him, but also envious of someone so passionate in their work – like the writer of Ecclesiastes, finding satisfaction in his toil.
So, after a wonderful stop in Nuits-Saint-Georges, I hopped back into the car to make my way north and discover the rest of the Côte de Nuits.
Next stop, Vougeot, which has two associated AOCs, Vougeot and Clos de Vougeot.
I stopped off in a number of the villages: Chambolle-Musigny, Gevrey-Chambertin, Fixin and Marsannay, but the day had turned out to be a scorcher and I have to confess, I was more interested in cold water to drink than red wine!
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| Chambolle-Musigny |
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| Gevrey-Chambertin |
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| Fixin |
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| Marsannay |
However, my Chambre d’Hôtes for tonight and tomorrow is owned by a vigneron, so I hope to sample some of his wine on Saturday evening, upon my return from Dijon, where I will be spending the day. His land must be in Marsannay as he is advertising that AOC, but in rosé, as well as red, so that will be interesting.
And the name of the village, I’m staying in – Couchey. Alors, maintenant, je me couche à Couchey…… Sorry…. Had to be done!
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