Saturday 28 August 2010

Day 27 - Back to Burgundy...

I couldn't take a wine tour of France and claim to have 'done' Burgundy without going to Chablis..... So this morning I drove almost directly south from Épernay to Chablis. The rough plan was just to take today as a travelling day.... get there late in the afternoon, settle into the night's accommodation and explore Chablis tomorrow. But, I awoke very early this morning, so just decided to head off immediately and was in Chablis by lunchtime. Chablis is just a village.... and its Appellation is a small, strictly enforced area, but the village itself has retained its charm.
I stopped off for lunch and a little glass of the local:
AOC Chablis Premier Cru 2007 - Domaine de Chaude Ecuelle, Montmains - On the nose - mineral and citrus, and to taste, mineral, grapefruit and a little blossom.
I took a wander through the village and ended up at La Chablisienne, a co-operative, yes, but one retaining the very highest standards of the Chablis legacy.
Not only was I treated to a very informative and educational visit, but also to 7 tastings, all of which 100% Chardonnay and characterised by excellent acidity and long length:
  1. AOC Petit Chablis 2007 "vibrant" - These are vines surrounding the village, but not quite within the AOC Chablis. The nose was buttery, mineraly and grapefruity..... And so was the taste, though more fruit than mineral.
  2. AOC Chablis 2006 "le finage" - The nose was very fruity - pink grapefruit and sweet citrus... and on the palate, sweet apple and citrus.
  3. AOC Chablis 2007 "les vénérables" - vielles vignes (30+ year old vines) - On the nose, a little more blossom and more pear, than sweet apple. On the palate, sweet apples, but with a citrus bite.
  4. AOC Chablis Premier Cru 2007 "Côte de Léchet" - this from the left bank of the Serein river, facing the Grand Cru hills. The nose was buttery, floral and, of course, smelled of grapefruit with a very fruity grapefruit and buttery taste.
  5. AOC Chablis Premier Cru 2007 "Mont de Milieu" - the aromas from this right bank wine were more defined... floral, herbaceous even, with a slight tropicality to the fruit. And on the palate, the same slight tropicality to the fruit... passionfruit, pear, but still the underlying citrus denying any sweetness. A persistent and intense flavour.
  6. AOC Chablis Grand Cru 2007 "Les Preuses" - one of the few small parcels of land, directly across the river from the village, designated as Grand Cru, and perceived to be the 'true' Chablis. The nose was all mineral with a hint of citrus..... imagine the smell of stones having just been rained on after a hot spell. On the palate, the same characteristic minerality with the addition of grapefruit and green apples. A rich, round wine with excellent acidity.
  7. AOC Chablis Grand Cru - Château Grenouilles 2006 - The only château in the prestigious area has produced a wine with a perfect balance of aromas between mineral, floral and citrus-grapefruit. And to drink.... a clean round wine with grapefruit, but the characteristic minerality of the Chablis area.
While fresh and bright right now, these wines can be kept from 8-10 years for the Premier Crus and up to 12 for the Grand Crus.

The very helpful gentleman who had walked me through these wines told me of a little trail up through the Grand Cru vineyards which had a wonderful aspect over the village. I duly negotiated the rather narrow trail, but was rewarded with a terrific view..... not nearly accurately representd in the photos:

Shortly after 3, I made my way the 10km to my lodging for the night in nearby Tonnerre. While I hope to explore Tonnerre tomorrow, I ended up popping into the city to do a spot of washing..... the clothes are getting a bit low, and while smalls are easily washed by hand in the bathroom, I needed a couple of larger items washed. The hotel didn't provide a laundry service, hence the need for a launderette, so hopefully the next place will have an iron!
Back for dinner..... and a cheeky glass to accompany, since I wasn't driving:
AOC Chablis Premier Cru - Montée de Tonnerre 2008 (Domaine Vocoret et Fils) - A much more floral/blossom nose with citrus/grapefruit and blossom flavours. Quite mild minerality.
And so to bed.

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